Hitchhiking for a thousand miles

I got my visa for Mauritania this day. Finally. And immediately left Rabat to collect my backpack in Agadir.

I met my Polish friend B by the ocean, he was sitting there reading a book when I came. We sat there for a while, talked about the fishermen and the world. We had some sort of brunch at a local a-place-with-a-guy-with-a-pot-and-some-sort-of-food and a cup of tea before heading to the main entrance of the medina to meet a German man, M, who I met the day before. He offered a ride south, for free, and the both of us decided to go with him.

As M came we went for coffee before heading to the embassy. A guy came up to us, started talking, and went with to the café and sat down. We have no idea who he was. He talked as if he followed the conversation, but as we talked about India, he talked about Europe. As we talked about fees in Germany, he talked about salaries and nodded his head. Then he thought we were paying his coffee, and the waiter had to call on him to get back and pay.
Oh well. Some things just can’t be explained. He disappeared as we got in the car, for a second I thought he would get in too and go with us, and we went to the embassy to collect our visas.
We left straight away, driving by the coast on our way to Agadir.

We reached Safi, many hours after we’d gazed over the landscape, coloured orange from the sunset. We passed a small village where to stopped to eat. At the restaurant they seemed only to serve meat, so I walked around the market and found a stand with bread and another with vegetables. For only four dirham, about forty euro cents, I had my whole dinner. I borrowed a knife from B and made a nice sandwich.
When we ate the cats attacked us. I gave them paprika, they spit it out and attacked me again. I’ve got nothing for you, you don’t like it, I tried. But the one cat continued attacking my legs until M threw him a piece of meat.

Safi is a strange and different city that stunned all three of us. Apparently it’s very famous for its ceramics, especially tangine-pots. As we arrived in the city it looked like any other Moroccan city. Then somewhere in the middle there was this huge roundabout, we took a couple of rounds while reading on the signs, trying to find the medina for a hotel. We found some sort of city center with people, movement, bread and vegetables and butchered animals hanging up side down and some random body parts of animals waiting for someone hungry enough to buy them.
Then we reached a part of the city which looked like a hurricane just went by. The houses were half torn and constructionsites witnessed of tries to build new in the middle of the old.

Eventually we found a hotel, and as we woke up the next morning we looked out the window. There it was, the ocean. Right next to us the whole time.
I will write about the crazy people we met outside the hotel another time, now it’s time to sleep.

B left us today, catching a night-bus to Dakhla. This is definitely the longest ride I’ve ever had hitch-hiking! We are leaving tomorrow morning, arriving in the evening.
And oh, we got a ticket for speeding in the desert today.


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